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When assembling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred names. However, situated near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

The small Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the family totally shocked.

“I’m completely surprised,” says the proprietor, referring to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest restaurant earning such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy quality.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

It is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in less syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own premises. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this gastronomic achievement.